‘You’ll see things like one ingredient, say scallops, or pork, done three different ways on one plate, just to showcase some of the possibilities. And, because I grew up in Iowa, you’ll still see things as simple and honest as mashed potatoes from time to time. Basically, you’ll see me on a plate.’
– Justin Wills, the new executive chef at The Bay House
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| Justin Wills |
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| Steve Wilson and Justin Wills, sitting for a moment at The Bay House, with Siletz Bay as a backdrop. |
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Where there's a Wills...
A new chef, a new way, at The Bay House in Lincoln City
By Niki Price
Oregon Coast Today
What do you call fresh Dungeness crab that has been tossed in a pineapple-chipotle vinaigrette, arranged over long ovals of thinly sliced cucumber with crispy leeks and a complement of avocado-citrus puree?
The latest special at The Bay House: Justin Wills, on a plate.
Wills, a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America and a veteran of top-rated kitchens from New York to Mendocino, was named the executive chef of The Bay House just two weeks ago. From his first day at the venerable bayside Lincoln City restaurant, Wills has been surprising palates with vivid takes on crab, halibut, prawns and salmon.
“My style involves simple flavors and combinations of textures. Three or four per plate rather than 10 or 12, employing a variety of cooking techniques, and making presentations in a progressive, dynamic manner,” he said. “You’ll see things like one ingredient, say scallops, or pork, done three different ways on one plate, just to showcase some of the possibilities. And, because I grew up in Iowa, you’ll still see things as simple and honest as mashed potatoes from time to time. Basically, you’ll see me on a plate.”
Wills caught the creative cooking bug early on, leaving Des Moines when he was 17 to attend the prestigious Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York. After graduation, he worked at the Larchmont Avenue Oyster House, a restaurant and seafood retail store in Larchmont, New York, and then at distinguished Italian restaurants such as Grappa, in Park City, Utah, and Toscana, in Dallas, Texas. He also helped to open a restaurant at the Stevenswood Spa Resort in Mendocino, Calif. Most recently, Wills spent the past 19 months at the Pelican Pub & Brewery in Pacific City, which was named “Large Brewpub of the Year” at the 2006 Great American Beer Festival in Denver, Colo.
He’s been excited to watch the growth of the local, sustainable foods movement, among diners as well as chefs, and sees The Bay House as a perfect example.
“We get as much organic produce as we can from Barking Dog Farms just 3 miles away, and local fish right off Captain Mike Fitzpatrick’s boat can’t be beat.” (During this interview, well-known local forager Lee Gray, aka “the Wild Gourmet” arrived at the back door with a few pounds of fresh-picked fiddlehead ferns, and Wills said, “Tonight we’ll have fiddleheads on the menu. That’s cool.”)
“Of course we love dealing with local products because they are so fresh, but there’s more to it than that. It takes a lot of people with a lot of talent to do what we do, and that’s why it’s rare to find a place like The Bay House outside a metropolitan area.” said Stephen Wilson, the restaurant’s owner. “It’s especially gratifying to know that we compete favorably, culinarily speaking, with other world-class restaurants because we’re close to the source. Believe me, Wolfgang Puck does not know the person who grows his produce or catches his fish. This adds a lot to what we are able to share with our guests.”
Wilson said that, like former executive chef Jesse Otero, Wills is free to change the menu whenever he likes, based on what’s available, what’s fresh, or simply what inspires him.
“You can’t limit an artist to what colors he can paint with,” Wilson said.
Last week, the new chef served herb-grilled spring Chinook salmon with parsnip puree and a Braeburn apple and ahi tuna tartare, crunchy sweet potatoes and a pomegranate reduction. The halibut was poached in Aleppo pepper butter, and topped with preserved kumquats, green onions and mizuna, and served with polenta with fontina cheese, and Barking Dog Farm’s organic kale.
“The food itself is going to be pretty progressive, and nothing on the menu is going to be set in stone. I think that might scare some people, and it will excite others, but it’s definitely exciting from the chef’s point of view,” Wills said. “Every day, you get new ingredients, and ask, ‘How do we implement those items on our menu?’ To me, it goes back to the essence of being a chef. You basically start with a blank slate, and each day that you come in, you start again.”
“To me, that’s awesome. That’s why I got into cooking,” he said.
Of course, if a customer is desperate for a Bay House favorite from days gone by, Chef Wills will be happy to prepare it (with a little advance notice).
“At this level of dining, accomodating special requests is a given,” Wills said. “It’s just another expression of the chef’s art form.”
Former Executive Chef Otero will remain in the kitchen, ensuring a smooth transition while continuing to feed his passion for cooking. With his recently-aquired reduction in responsibility, he is exploring the wine business. Applicants to replace him came from as far away as Finland and Germany, Wilson said.
“This is part of the normal life of a restaurant, and it’s one of the most important decisions I will ever make. Jesse has been the defining factor here for six years, so making sure that the torch is passed to the right person can be a frightening endeavor. It takes a very special person to fit into the coastal community, someone who can make a world-class culinary statement despite our challenges. Justin is just what we were looking for and I’m very excited to have him on board. His creativity, technique, and professionalism made my decision easy. I’m confident that he is just what we needed to take The Bay House to the next level.”
“I started evolving the menu the first day I got here; not just to change it, but to let people know where I come from, what my ability is as a chef, and what’s available,” Wills said. “I have to put my style of cooking out there, because I’m the one it comes back to. If something isn’t terrific, it’s my name on the menu. I need to be proud of what we serve, and I look forward to exploring what’s possible at The Bay House.”
The Bay House is located at 5911 SW Hwy. 101 in Lincoln City. Dinner is served nightly beginning at 5:30 p.m. Lunch is served Tuesday through Saturday from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. To make a reservation, call 541-996-3222.
TideTables is an advertiser-sponsored feature of the Oregon Coast Today. To include your restaurant in an upcoming edition, call Charles Helbig,
503-842-0404 or Dave Price, 541-921-2306.
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