By Patrick Alexander
Oregon Coast TODAY
To the casual observer, Ethan Granberg and Danelle Lochrie had it made. As co-owners of Lincoln City’s Hearth & Table, the couple enjoyed a dedicated following and a stellar reputation for creating mouthwatering dishes from fresh, local ingredients.
But behind the scenes, these serial entrepreneurs, who cut their teeth with the popular Rockfish Bakery in Lincoln City, were mulling a fresh challenge — breathing new life into the town’s old bowling alley.
The couple had decided against buying the bowling alley when their lease on the bakery expired back in 2015, deciding the 1928 building needed more work than they were ready for. But, late last year, when the building’s new owners advertised for tenants, Ethan and Danelle were ready for the challenge of bringing Olde Line Lanes & Kitchen to life.
While neither claims to be a great bowler, the couple have long had a soft spot for bowling alleys, seeking them out whenever they visit a new town.
“I like the atmosphere in bowling alleys,” Ethan said. “The older they are the cooler they are.”
When renovating the space, the couple embraced the nostalgic, diner-era décor, buying up Formica tables for the dining area and decorating the walls with vintage advertisements and brochures they discovered while clearing out the back office.
Since opening their doors in May, Ethan and Danelle have been thrilled to see Olde Line fill up with a mixture of Hearth & Table regulars drawn in by the menu and bowling fans coming in to play a few frames.
“We are seeing a real mix of people, from families to young couples to high schoolers,” Danelle said. “I like seeing that; a large diversity of people coming in to use the space and all seeming to enjoy it.”
A mixture of 1950s pinsetters and scoring computers from the ’70s are enough to keep in-house mechanic Adam Jamerson on his toes, fixing glitches and improving the bowling experience with every passing day.
Meanwhile, the kitchen crew focus on serving up tasty dishes to bowlers and non-bowlers alike.
“We really liked the idea of casual service but with real, fresh, wonderful food,” Danelle said. “We like the idea that you can eat food that isn’t fancy but well prepared in a casual environment.”
When crafting the Olde Line menu, the couple maintained their focus on fresh and local ingredients but relaxed their previous requirement that everything be made entirely in-house. The result is quality food at prices that fit with the casual, bowling alley setting. Case in point: the pasta carbonara, priced at $13, which transforms dried noodles into a decadent dish through the addition of Gran Padano cheese, egg yolk, bacon and one final tongue-in-cheek ingredient — dreams.
A bowling alley needs a hot dog, and Olde Line serves up high-quality dogs from Olympia Provisions on a house-made bun, with toppings ranging from braised cabbage, mustard and dill pickle; to kale, caramelized onion and mayo.
Elsewhere on the menu, regulars will find enduring favorites from Hearth & Table, such as the tuna salad sandwich, made with Oregon line-caught tuna from Barnacle Bill’s.
A select range of house cocktails includes a hibiscus margarita, a rye-ly named Olde Fashioned, and The Bee’s Knees, combining bourbon, lemon and honey simple syrup to delicious effect.
Beer and wine are available on draft, with IPA and porter each having a designated tap, complemented by a third tap that always features something light. And a well-stocked fridge packed with bottles and cans offers a wide range of beers to enjoy on site or take away. And Ethan said he added one beer with the lanes in mind.
“We are carrying Old German from Pittsburgh,” he said. “It’s yellow and it comes in 16-ounce cans. It’s bowling beer.”
As well as being open for lunch and dinner five days a week, the restaurant offers brunch on Sundays, serving up fun breakfast food like open-faced pimento, avocado and fried egg sandwiches and fried chicken on cornmeal pancakes with fruit syrup.
“It’s great to see people bowling after brunch and before getting on with the rest of their day,” Ethan said.
Olde Line Lanes & Kitchen is located at 316 SE Hwy. 101, just south of the D River Wayside. They are open from 11 am to 9:30 pm Tuesday through Saturday and 9 am to 1:30 pm for brunch on Sundays. Call them at 541-614-1650.
Lanes are $25 for the first hour, charged by the quarter hour thereafter. A matinée special offers lanes for $20 per hour before 4 pm from Tuesday through Thursday.